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IDC (Integral Dermo Correction) Hydra Seal Moisturizer, Integral First Wrinkles Serum & Anti Wrinkle Eye Serum Review May 4, 2011

 

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We received a gift set of three IDC products as a gift, and we tested the products out for 1 month. Unfortunately, the products had probably gone bad ( the serum and cream smelt bad, the eye serum was yellowish in colour, and the face cream was also a different colour from the normal colour ) and we found out about it only after using it for a month. We could not return it because it was a gift, and we even sent an email to the company – but they couldn’t ‘do much’…

Brand Introduction

Birth Of IDC

After many meetings with scientific experts and clinicians, Dr. Dupont concluded that there was no truly complete anti-age solution. Drawing on his extensive pharmaceutical experience, rigorous approach, and high quality standards, Dr.Dupont devoted five years to studying the mechanisms of aging and selecting ingredients of diverse origins that are most effective in fighting them. The result was Regen-16 technology:

  • The only solution that targets all major skin aging mechanisms simultaneously
  • The first scientific breakthrough providing such high concentrations of cosmetic actives
  • Patent pending

What is IDC’s patented Regen-16 ?

Regen-16 is a patented technology at the core of all IDC™ products. Regen-16 combines 16 major active ingredients as a base for fighting the signs of skin aging. Various complementary active ingredients are added to this base, targeting more specific needs such as deep wrinkles, first wrinkles, eye and lip contours, and anti-wrinkle and firming. Major active ingredients are used at their clinically effective concentration and combined with others for a total concentration of active ingredients up to 43%, and a total of active molecules up to 70 in formulation.

Regen-16 also features 16 mechanisms of action in motion, working together to balance and stimulate the skin’s regenerative properties.

Here are the 16 mechanisms of Regen-16 which are divided into two parts – stimulating effects and inhibitory (moderates) effects.  Click on photo to be directed to the full page with very detailed explanation :

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These are the ingredients that are present in IDC products, together with their functions :

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 Who is Dr. Dupont?

A distinguished scientist, skilled inventor, and accomplished businessman, Dr. Dupont has been developing groundbreaking solutions for humain wellbeing for nearly 20 years.

  • Doctorate in physiology/endocrinology from Université Laval
  • Posdoctorate in neuroendocrinology from Hôpital Notre-Dame de Montréal research center

Cofounder of the following companies:

  • Aeterna Zentaris (TSX: AEZ, NASDAQ: AEZS): Known for its innovative approach and cancer-fighting products. It was here that MDI Complex®(under-eye shadows, redness, couperose) was developed and patented under Dr. Dupont’s leadership.
  • Atrium Innovations (TSX: ATB): Initially created to serve the cosmeceuticaland nutrition industries

Product Introduction

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1) IDC First Wrinkles Integral Serum

  • Maintains youthful looking skin
  • Makes skin look smoother and brighter
  • Evens skin tone by reducing pigment spots

Some signs of aging can become visible on people as young as 25 years old due to an imbalance of the skin’s aging mechanisms.

The first signs of skin aging are not always fine lines but sometimes appear as uneven skin tone, a drawn and tired complexion, and the appearance of pigment spots.

The way we care for our skin as of the age of 20 will reflect on how it will react to aging and daily stresses in the future (sun, stress, care, lifestyle, etc.).

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2) IDC Hydra-Seal Moisturizer

  • Optimizes the effectiveness of concentrate and serums
  • Protects skin against dehydration while assuring natural synthesis of its inherent moisturizing elements
  • Keeps skin soft and smooth
  • Locks in moisture and allows the  high concentration of IDC™ active ingredients to work to their full potential
  • Offers long-lasting moisturizing protection

 

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3) IDC Anti Wrinkle Eye Serum

  • Visibly reduces the appearance of wrinkles and crow’s feet
  • Reduces the appearance of dark circles, bags, and puffiness under the eyes

The ANTI-WRINKLE EYE serum has the highest concentration of cosmetic active ingredients (34%), which were specially selected for their specific effects on the area around the eyes.

Many additional cosmetic active ingredients other than REGEN-16 were also specially selected for this product to treat bags and dark circles under the eyes.

The area around the eyes requires specific care and particular products adapted to its delicate skin.

The ANTI-WRINKLE EYE serum should be dabbed on around the eyes following the orbital bone instead of being applied with a pressured movement.

Packaging

 

 

We like the packaging of IDC products. They are simple yet elegant. The face and eye serum comes with a plastic pump tube and are both rather light, but they are all slightly bulky to bring around if you’re travelling. The covers also closes tightly!

The face cream comes in a plastic jar and also contains a plastic lid on top of it.

Texture 

1. IDC First Wrinkles Integral Serum

As mentioned, the products went bad, so i don’t know if this is the actual colour of the serum (white yellowish?) – but it definitely reminds me of the Korean serums – which are thicker in texture and almost have an emulsion-like texture. It still feels rather light and moisturizing, and absorbs easily. Brightens up the skin immediately and makes it feel really soft. Pretty good for a product that has gone rancid! I wonder how the effects would be like if we were to use a fresh product. However, the serum smelt bad – i don’t know if this is the actual scent of the serum – but we definitely didn’t like it !

I use about 2 full pumps for each application. Recommended for all skin types.

2. IDC Hydra-Seal Moisturizer

This cream was really greasy upon application ( and again, don’t know if it was because it went bad ) and definitely not suitable for those with oily combination skin. The concentration of shea butter is rather high here, which probably explains the greasiness. However the cream has a very light, nice texture and it is suppose to be light blue in color – not yellowish white like the photos above.

It leaves your face with a nice glow – probably due to the shea butter and/or squalane high up the ingredient list.

Another thing was the smell – if you’ve tried the famous Philosophy’s Hope In A Jar – which smells like wet dogs/fish – you’re in for a treat here too! Hahaha.. However, fragrance is included in the formula so we think that it’s probably due to the product gone bad once more.

3. IDC Anti Wrinkle Eye Serum

The eye serum has the highest concentration of active ingredients ( 34% ) compared to the other two. It also has the lightest texture compared to the serum and cream, and absorbs rather easily too. And again, we’re not too sure if this is the actual colour ( yellowish ) of the serum.

We experienced a slight ‘burning’ feeling when we applied the serum. We do not know if it was due to the high concentration of the product, or it was due to it gone rancid, so those of you with sensitive skin, be careful.

Apparently, since this product is concentrated in active ingredients, you may experience some tingling sensation – haha so we don’t know if this tingling sensation is that burning sensation.

Ingredients

1. IDC First Wrinkles Integral Serum

The ingredient list is quite impressive. It is rare to see propylene glycol and butylene glycol down the list ( in Whoo and Sulwhasoo products, they are always the top 5 in the ingredient list ).

 

IDC Products are paraben-free ( which probably explains why they went bad ! ), and as you can see in the list, it contains lots and lots and lots of antioxidants, vitamins – a whole bunch of beneficial stuff.  Wish it was fragrance-free though.

2. IDC Hydra-Seal Moisturizer

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The ingredient list for the cream is rather short compared to the two serums. It is rich in squalane, shea butter, and glycerin – which are the top 3 ingredients in this cream – which probably explains the greasiness of the cream.

Not as impressive as the serums.

3. IDC Anti Wrinkle Eye Serum

This has a crazy ingredient list! It’s sooooo long – just like the ingredient list of korean high-end products like Sulwhasoo, Whoo, Sum37 – and much longer than the IDC Cream and Face Serum.

Silicones are high up on the list at number 2 after water which explains it’s super soft after texture. It contains so much goodies and active ingredients in this serum – ceramides, peptides, rice bran, soybean extracts, herbal ingredients, hyaluronic acid, vitamins, antioxidants, etc. The list is kind of overwhelming!

Review

We really liked this line during the 1 month testing period. Even though the products went rancid, it did not cause any skin irritation or pimples – only the slightly burning sensation when the eye serum was used.

It also gave the skin a dewy complexion after you apply the products – and after 1 month, we did feel that the skin was glowing, and healthy.

We did not see any difference on our wrinkles or fine lines – the line is probably more of a prevention line than a treating one.

The eye cream – although concentrated in actives – didn’t perform as well as we expected. Maybe a fresh product would be more effective, but we did not see much difference after applying it for a month. It absorbs easily but it wasn’t hydrating enough – so we had to apply an eye cream on top of it. We did not see any effects on dark circles, bags and puffiness under the eyes like it claims to.

Eye Cream claims to :

  • Visibly reduces the appearance of wrinkles and crow’s feet ( Hmmm..)
  • Reduces the appearance of dark circles, bags, and puffiness under the eyes ( Hmmm…)

The face serum – we did like a lot! It has a very nice texture, absorbs well into the skin, brightens it up and unifies the tone of the skin. Results were much more visible compared to the eye cream. It is also perfect for all skin types! It also claims to reduce pigment spots – but we did not see any difference in this area. Out of the 3 claims ( below ) , it did achieve 2 of it – so kudos!

Face Serum claims to :

  • Maintains youthful looking skin ( Check! )
  • Makes skin look smoother and brighter ( Check! )
  • Evens skin tone by reducing pigment spots ( Hmm… )

The moisturizer – we’d skip the moisturizer if the normal fresh moisturizer was the same as the one we used. It was a little too greasy, therefore not suitable for all skin types, but on the positive side : it absorbs easily. On the packaging, it even says ‘For Normal to Dry Skin’.

There is another version with an SPF 25 – so check that out if you’re interested.

Conclusion

The science and ingredients behind the line is pretty impressive. It does have a lot of science and studies to back up the ingredients that are used in this line.

Here is a scientific publication by Dr. Dupont, creator of IDC, which was published on the Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine in 2010. To read the full publication, click here.

You can also read up on the clinical reports that were done on test subjects here

For more information on the entire line, go to their official website here.

The brand has grown quite rapidly in these 2 years – and a bunch of new products have been introduced – such as the Whitening serum, etc.

Our only regret is that the products went rancid, therefore we could not experience the full effects of what the products would have probably brought because it does seem to have a lot of potential.

If we were to pick one product to try out once more – it would definitely be the serum.

Re-purchasability

50% – We’re giving it only 50%  because we’re not sure if the products would have gone bad if we were to purchase it once more. Make sure the colours of the products are correct before purchasing it, and that it doesn’t have a bad smell ! However, after using this, it definitely makes us want to try out the other IDC products.

 

Alexander Kimsco BB Cream Ceramide November 20, 2010

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Introduction

Alexander Kimsco is the KING of all BB Creams. It was also one of the first BB Creams that hit the market ( after Schrammek’s BB Cream ).  After the success of Schrammek’s Blemish  Balm, other german cosmetic companies also launched their own BB Cream, and Alexander Kimsco was one of them.

Amongst the the brands, Alexander Kimsco’s was one of the more popular brands because it came in skin color that gave a natural look compared to other brands that were grey in color ( However, i beg to differ here! )

In 1990, Alexander Kimsco establied a subsidiary in Korea and released their First BB Cream. That BB Cream that made Alexander Kimsco a household name was their ‘BmB Blemish Balm’ .

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In 2009, they released a new BB Cream called the Alexander Kimsco Ceramide BB Cream ( which will be reviewed ).


What Are Ceramides?

First of all, let us understand the name behind this BB Cream. What exactly are ceramides?

Scientists are uncovering the important role that ceramides play in the barrier function of the skin. The top layer of the skin is the epidermis, and the top layer of the epidermis is thestratum corneum (SC). Even though the SC is very thin — 10-30 mm or one-tenth the thickness of a piece of paper — it is the main barrier of the skin. It keeps chemicals that come in contact with the skin from absorbing into the body, and it keeps water inside the skin from leaching out.

The SC contains three types of lipids — ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. These lipids have different chemical compositions and different functions throughout the body. There are nine different types of ceramides in the SC, conveniently named ceramide 1 through ceramide 9, and they account for 40-50% of the lipids in this outermost layer.

Scientists have learned that people who have eczema have significantly fewer ceramides in their SC. On the other hand, people with psoriasis(another itchy, flaky rash sometimes confused with eczema) have the same number of ceramides compared to people with normal skin.

Recent studies have shown that lipids can be replaced with topical preparations. Interestingly, all three lipids have to be replaced at a certain ratio to restore the barrier function of the skin. If the incorrect balance of lipids is applied, it actually takes longer for the skin to heal. The healing effect of ceramides has been studied in eczema, but there are no studies yet for psoriasis.

Moisturizers with Ceramides – Not All the Same

There are several moisturizers that claim to have ceramides in their ingredients, but these are just regular moisturizers unless they can show:

  • The moisturizer also contains cholesterol and free fatty acids
  • The ratio of these three ingredients is correct

That is what Alexander Kimso’s Ceramide BB Cream is all about. As BB Creams was firstly used for those who has undergone cosmetic treatments ( such as laser peel, etc) and for those with skin problems such as eczema – therefore, it is only natural that Ceramides was used as the main ingredient here.

The Ceramide BB Cream helps keep moisture in the skin  and contains the same balance of lipids as your skin.

Ceramide moisturises are extremely useful to treat eczema, but they can be used by anyone with dry skin.

To read more on moisturisers with Ceramides, click here !


Packaging

As i was given a 5ml sample, i cannot comment on the packaging, but here it is how it looks like : comes in a simple 50ml tube. It is really sad to say that the packaging isn’t appealing at all. In fact, the european-made BB Creams such as Schrammek, Alexander Kimsco, etc have the ugliest BB Cream packaging in the world and cannot be compared to their Asian counterpart. The packaging isn’t desirable at all and makes it seem like a cheap product!

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Ingredients

1) Ceramide – please refer to the What Are Ceramides section above.

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2) Licorice Extract – from the Licorice Plant known also as sweetwood and black sugar since the extract is very sweet. As an herbal supplement, licorice extract is said to boost the immune system, aid in the function of antioxidants. It also has anti-inflammatory properties.

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3) Cera Alba – also known as Beeswax. It helps as binder when manufacturing and also helps withstabilizing the emulsion when combining water and oil based products while conditioning the skin and thickening the mixture.

The inclusion of beeswax in a formula does NOT make the product tacky or oily – but helps to create a very luxurious “feel” to the product.

It is classified as a binder, emulsion stabilizer, fragrance ingredient, skin conditioning agent (miscellaneous), surfactant (emulsifying agent) and a viscosity increasing agent and chemically classed as a wax.

Texture and Color

The texture here is rather unique, i have not felt such texture before with any BB Creams or even Creams. My guess is that it is probably due to the ceramides?

It leaves a matte feeling on your skin and does not feel oily at all. However i do feel that this is a love-it or hate-it texture. Personally, i felt weird initially because i’ve never felt such texture/feeling before, but i came to like it after a few uses. It feels like the cream creates a barrier over the skin , and doesn’t feel like the slippery smooth feeling that most BB Creams have ( which is due to silicones ).

However, this cream will not give you that moist feeling and those with very dry skin will definitely need to apply some cream before the BB Cream. For those with oily skin, you will probably be happy with it’s texture.

The BB Cream looks very creamy and rich in texture, but it isn’t quite the case once applied to skin as it doesn’t give that rich feeling that it seems to have. It also needs a little rub when applying to your skin due to it’s creamy thick texture.

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Colour wise , this BB Cream is very natural. It is actually one of the more natural colours i’ve seen in BB Creams. However, this BB Cream did give me a shock when i applied it for the first time because the greyish tone was very heavy and my skin looked so dull and ‘ash-ified’.

However, i found out what the problem was – i was suppose to wait for a few minutes to let the BB Cream sink into my skin and blend with my skin tone ( which applies to ALL BB Creams! ). After a few minutes, it gave a very natural look.

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SC : Skin Ceramic BB

B : Beaute Derm BB

SV : SunnySide VIP BB

A: Alexander Kimsco Ceramide BB

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Coverage

The coverage for this product isn’t very good. Although it is an excellent skin camouflage because of it’s very natural colour, it sadly lacks in coverage. Those of you with big pores, scars will have to cover it with something else, but this BB Cream serves as an excellent make up base because it keeps your skin matte and helps protect from loss of moisture.

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Before :

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After :

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Before ( On my troubled cheek Sad smile ),  After : Not much difference Sad smile :

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Before and after on my less troubled cheek :

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Oil Control

One word to describe : FANTASTIC!

This BB Cream has one of the best oil-controlling properties i’ve come across on any BB Creams. It’s perfect for those with oily skin. After 8 hours, my skin doesn’t feel very oily, and feels very comfortable!

Here’s some proof :

The time when the photo was taken is noted on the blotting paper itself on the right.

SC : Skin Ceramic BB

B : Beaute Derm BB

SV : SunnySide VIP BB

A: Alexander Kimsco Ceramide BB

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On its own :

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Incredible isn’t it? Even after 12 hours, the oil doesnt even cover 1/4 of the blotting paper!

Conclusion

The question is now : Is it worth spending $100 on this BB Cream? Is it even worth $100? My answer is sadly No.

While i’m satisfied with this BB Cream, i do feel that it’s price is too steep for a BB Cream. One can easily find another BB Cream that does the same job for much less!  However, i believe that the steep price is due to the high-quality natural ingredients that was used to make this BB Cream. Ceramide itself is a rather expensive ingredient. However, i would purchase a sample size of it on days when i need to look fabulously naturally !

While i do love it’s very natural color ( and hates its very greyish base it gives on first few minutes of application ) , i have to say it has one of the best oil controlling properties. The BB Cream is also very comfortable to use and doesn’t dry up your skin, nor does it make it oily. When applied, you will feel that there is some kind of a ‘barrier’ on your skin.

On the coverage side, it is average. Those with no skin problems would find this enough, but those who wants more coverage should skip this product, or use it as a make-up base.

For it’s moisturizing properties, those with dry skin would definitely need to apply their usual cream before this BB Cream. For those living in countries where it’s summer all year long, this might do just enough! And for those with oily skin, you definitely just need to apply this to your face and skip the moisturizer!

Here is the before  (just after cleansing ) and after ( 5 minutes after applying the BB cream)  results with the skin analyzer :

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BRTC ADVANCED PURIFICATION PROGRAM bubble Refining cleanser November 18, 2010

Introduction


BRTC ADVANCED PURIFICATION PROGRAM Bubble Refining Cleanser produces rich and fine bubbles that run into pores to clear impurities and dead skin cells. Pores are therefore unclogged. What’s more, it helps controls sebum secretion, detoxifies and purifies skin. Skin’s capacity for moisture and nutrients is therefore optimized, revealing translucent white and flawless.


To read more about the product , look at the information in the photo below :

Packaging


The cleanser comes in a medium sized 60ml bottle. The packaging gives a rather serious image of the product, with the use of pure white color with the use of blue colored text which is BRTC’s trademark color.

Application/Directions

I was rather confused as there were two different instructions regarding the product.

First was from Sasa.com

1. After cleansing, apply a proper amount of Bubble Refining Cleanser onto dry face.

2. Abundant oxygen bubbles are formed in a few seconds.

3. After 5 minutes, massage the bubbles with wet fingers in order to remove excess sebum and dead cells.

4. Rinse off with warm water.

5. Use once or twice a week.

And secondly, the instructions on the leaflet :

1. After refining skin texture with toner, pump Bubble Refining Cleanser 2-3 times and place it in a glass bowl at the stage of deep cleansing

2. Apply it with pack brush according to the direction of the skin

3. After forming rich bubbles in 3-5 minutes, massage softly with fingertips and wash off with running water.

I couldn’t understand the official instructions so i opted to use Sasa’s instructions

Ingredients

  • Papaya Extract: exfoliates aged cuticles. Papaya contains enzyme papain, which has wonderful exfoliating properties – removing dead skin, and specifically damaged skin. Most enzyme cleansers contain Papaya extracts.
  • Lemon Extract: detoxifies and brightens skin.
  • Lavender Extract: soothes skin and antiseptic. It helps wound healing.
  • Spinach Extract: nourishes skin.
  • Na-Complex: unclogs pores and prevention the appearance of black heads.
  • Hydrogen Peroxide – pale blue liquid (which explains the faint blue color of the cleanser) that has many uses including bleaching agent, disinfectant and antiseptic. There is a great deal of current research showing that hydrogen peroxide is problematic as a topical disinfectant because it can greatly reduce the production of healthy new skin cells. In Chemistry, we know that H202 (its chemistry name) is a strong oxidizing agent, meaning that it generates free-radical damage which impairs the skin healing process.

You have a few foaming agents here :

  • Cocamidopropyl betaine – synthetic surfactant (Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension of a liquid, allowing easier spreading, and lowering of the interfacial tension between two liquids) derived from coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine that does not irritate skin or mucuous membrane. It also has antiseptic properties. However some studies indicate it is an allergen (cause allergic reactions) and has even won Allergan Of The Year in 2004.
  • Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate and Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate clean the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that these substances can be rinsed away. They also increase foaming capacity or stabilize foams
  • Sodium Laureth Sulfate – I have discussed it here at the Elisha Coy review : click here
  • Cocamide DEA – is a viscous liquid and is used as a foaming agent in bath products like shampoos and hand soaps, and in cosmetics as an emulsifying agent.

Also another interesting ingredient

  • Benzophenone – is used to prevent ultraviolet light from damaging scents and colors in products such as perfumes and soaps. This allows the manufacturer to package the product in clear glass or plastic. Without it, opaque or dark packaging would be used.

Looks like this cleanser is packed with humongous amount of ingredients that are irritating to the skin, so those of you with sensitive skin, please report back here if you have incurred any reactions!

Cleansing Power

This product is actually used only in the second step of cleansing. You will have to clean your skin with your cleanser first, dry it, then double cleanse with this product.

It is the first time we’ve used a self-foaming cleanser. No water is added but foams are created automatically with time ( no surprise here considering the amount of foaming agents here used! ) mmmm It is rather unique and the bubbles do give a little massage on the face as you can feel it moving around your face. I like the ticklish feeling it does, as if giving a little micro massage to the face. After a few minutes, the foam becomes more evident and puffy !

And the foam lather is more apparent on my face :

Conclusion

Other than the number of irritants in the ingredients, i am pleased with this cleanser. It double cleanses the face and after cleansing, it doesn’t give that tight uncomfortable feeling. However, this product is not a cleanser, you will need to clean your face before cleansing with this product.

Apparently, when the soft bubbles massages pores, impurities from pores are removed  and it smoothes congested circulation which helps brighten dull skin tone.

Before cleansing, the skin analyser showed :

What a huge improvement!

I’m still quite puzzled why the dramatic change in Oiliness when this is suppose to be a cleanser! Lol ! Smile

I love the feeling of the bubbles on my face, and the foam forming without the need of water. Plus the feeling of the ‘massage’ the bubbles give is a plus! Sasa .com is having a buy 1 free 1 deal, so this is totally worth it if you want to give it a try. If you’re sensitive to those ingredients mentioned above, stay away from this cleanser!

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Elisha Coy/ ElishaCoy BB All In One Cleanser November 6, 2010

Introduction

Elishacoy is a European styled organic skincare cosmetics brand which encourages a healthy lifestyle, spiritual abundance, and modern sense. Our organic skincare products are intended to enhance both outer beauty and the beauty from within, improving the lives of individuals.
Elishacoy is a highly dignified organic skincare that maximizes the skin’s self-renewal capability. Major ingredients include herb extracts which are known to be the ‘essence of botanical healing’ with a natural aroma extracted from 100% of natural essential oil. Some of our products include the essence cream, BB cream, mineral powder, mask sheets, scrub masks and more.

*BB All-In-One Cleanser 200mL / Skincare and cleansing all-in one!
Enjoy the double functionality of massaging and cleansing with various nutritional benefits and a creamy texture for bright, luminous skin.

I have been using this BB Cleanser for about a week now – and it is fast becoming my favourite cleanser.

Product Feature

1. Make your cleansing more perfect with much stronger 2-in-1 system!

Reinforced 2-in-1 system of Elisha Coy makes your cleansing care more perfect

2. Strong moisturizing ability to draw 6000ml of moisture with 1g only

3. Science of pH 5.5 that protects your skin

4. Low-irritant vegetable cleansing care for sensitive skinPure natural vegetable ingredients are safe for your sensitive or troublesome skin!

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Packaging

Almost all Elisha Coy products come in very nice, clean, simple, classy packaging. This one is no exception. The cleanser comes in a plastic pump containing 200ml of the cleanser.

Directions/How-To-Use

Massage & Cleansing at One Time

1st deep cleansing of dry face by gentle massage without water 

2nd deep cleansing of face with water, generating sufficient lather

Safe on your sensitive skin with no irritant vegetable ingredients

Ingredients

One negative thing about Elisha Coy products is that the ingredients list is all in Korean. However thanks to Queen Kimiko, i found the ingredient list in English , so i am going to be borrowing her list :

And indeed, i was disappointed because there you have it, sodium laureth sulfate is listed there as the first ingredient.

1) Sodium Laureth Sulfate –  is a foaming agent which is used in many personal care products – cleansers, soap, shampoo etc. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is its less toxic cousin, but not safe to use as well.  Sodium Laureth Sulfate was mainly used as cleaners and degreasant and it does the same to our skin – it strips off the natural oils of our skin and erodes the skin in an attempt to clean it. It has a relatively low molecular weight, therefore making it easy to be absorbed and build up in our body. Recently Sodium Laureth Sulfate has been put in the spotlight because it contains a carcinogen substance known as Dioxane. When accumulated in our body, it may become cancerous and it has been linked to liver and bladder cancer in animals.  To read more regarding this, head over here.

However, there are many beneficial ingredients to balance this out.

1) Betaine

It is a natural moisturizing agent extracted from sugar beet and provides skin with elasticity and luster. Those studying organic chemistry would find this interesting as Betaine is a nutrient known as a methyl (-CH3) donor. it donates methyl molecules in the body to make chemical processes work.



2) Centella Asiatica / Gotu Kola

Pride of Asia Smile. This wonder asian herb has been used in many products lately.

It speeds up collagen production and improves skin elasticity and softness. Gotu Kola is a minor feature in the longevity tradition of the Tai Chi Chuan master Li Ching-Yuen. He purportedly lived to be 197 or 256, due in part to his usage of traditional Chinese herbs including Gotu Kola.

3) Siberian chrysanthemum

With its strong skin-soothing ability, it soothes your skin troubles and restores skin health.

4) Rose Mary

It controls sebum secretion and normalizes the elasticity of loose pores.

5) Linden Flower

Its abundant mucus and tanin soothe irritated skin and reinforce skin elasticity. It is used externally for itchy skin complaints.

Texture

I am impressed with the texture of this cleanser. Infact, it could easily pass of as having the texture of a serum/essence. It did kind of reminded me of Sulwhasoo’s First Aid Serum. Because of it’s serum like texture, it is very easy to glide it over the skin for cleansing.

Cleansing Power

I tried to make my skin as dirty as possible to test the cleansing power of this cleanser. I used some BB Cream, Markers, Ink Pen, and Eye liners.

Note that this photo was taken even without adding any water yet. I just glided the cleanser over my hand and glided it all over my hand and almost everything came off easily other than the word HOPE with the ink pen.

This is what it looked like after gliding the cleanser evenly on my skin (NO water was used at all ! )

Please remember to massage your face with the cleanser to improve blood circulation.

This was the end result after introducing water onto the cleanser and foaming it. Impressive isn’t it? Skin tone was definitely brighter and smoother after cleansing with it.  Loves! Smile

Results

I used the skin analyser on both my face and hands before using the cleanser :

Skin Analyser on Face before using the Cleanser :

Compare it with the Skin Analysis Chart :

-4 for all Moisture, Oil, Skin Texture = Dry skin Sad smile

And after cleaning with Elisha Coy BB Cream Cleanser : –3 for both Moisture Level and Skin texture, improvement by one bar. I guess that’s pretty impressive for a cleanser that’s suppose to strip of all the oil, dirt and moisture from your skin eh? I expected a –5 for all.

And with my hands- BEFORE cleansing : seems like my hands were as dry as my face. Hehe ^^

Results were more impressive on the hands. +2 bars for Skin Moisture level, oiliness level and skin texture level ! Smile Smile

Conclusion

I am really impressed with this product. However, compared to my favourite Decleor’s Reflet de Purete , it still lacking in just only one way : how my skin feels after cleansing. With Elisha Coy BB Cleanser, my skin feels a bit tight after cleansing, but the Decleor Reflet de Purete makes my skin feel very moist even after cleansing. But it doesn’t reach the point where the skin is dry and uncomfortable.

However, this product is no doubt one of my favourite cleansers. It’s serum like texture is great for a small massage on your skin while cleansing ( i’m BIG into massaging every time i clean and apply my creams lately – i havent had a single pimple for almost 2 weeks since i started massaging and using Sulwhasoo ) so it’s definitely a plus!  On top of that, it cleanses really well too.

Repurchase? Definitely. In fact i have already purchased another bottle of this. Just the scent of this would make me buy the product over and over again. It has a very nice light scent to it.

Worth the money? This product retails for about 28,000 Korean Won (about 18 euros). Definitely rather high for just a cleanser. However it is just not a cleanser, it doubles up as a massage gel as well. So for those of you who are on the fence : If you are someone who believes in Facial massages – i’d say get it. You can skip a step in your skincare routine. For those who are too lazy – skip this and get a cheaper cleanser.

For other reviews , head over to Queen Momoko , MillyWalker ,

Sexy Dawn . All of them loved the cleanser.

 

Update : here

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Etude House Dr Oil Solution Anti Shine Dual Primer October 30, 2010

Introduction

Dr Oil is the latest Etude House range for the oily skin. It currently houses three products – one the Shine Free Dual Primer and the other Anti-Shine BB Lotion SPF 20 PA++, and the last being  Anti-Shine Mist. It is relatively new therefore you would not be able to find any information regarding this two products on the Etude House English Official site.

What’s nice about this line is that it is paraben-free, , oil-free and non-comedogenic.

For more information on this range, head over to kiraramirez’s blog : click here!

For reviews regarding the Anti Shine Mist , head over to KittyBoBeep’s blog : click here!

For reviews regarding the Anti-Shine BB Lotion, head over to Queen Koko’s blog : click here!

For other reviews regarding the Shine Free Dual Primer, head over to SugarPao’s blog ( click here! ) and The Beauty Blog (  click here! )

Packaging

The Korean Cosmetics Industry are getting more and more innovative with their packaging compared to their Western counterparts. This product consist of two parts – first on the cap is the primer, and on the tube : the moisturiser. On top of that, there is also a little mirror! Very cute.

However, i do have one complain about it. It is actually very unhygienic to apply the primer using your fingers. Dirt/Dust, bacteria and germs will definitely get stuck on it. Already after a few applications, there are dust and dirt on my primer. So i do advice you to make sure your hands are verrrrrry clean before you even touch this.

Directions

1. Firstly, use the moisturiser and apply it on your face.

2. Then, use your clean fingers and apply the primer to enlarged pore areas. Blend and rub in with your fingers.

Ingredients

My photo was kind of blur so i am going to borrow a photo of The Beauty Blog’s Ingredient list ( Thanks! )

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Though this product claims to be paraben-free, oil-free and non-comedogenic, it does contains lots of other ingredients that are in the ‘no-no’ list like Alcohol, Silicones, Talc , Petrolatum, etc..

1. Silicones :  Dimethicones – Silica – Phenyl Trimethicone ( it has a drier finish than Dimethicones) –  Methicones – Silica Sylate – and the list is exhaustive.  There is NO SINGLE DOUBT that there will be lots lots lots of silicones on this product without even having to look at it. Therefore, one should be weary that too much silicones on your skin will suffocate your skin and make it not able to ‘breathe’. And that is how the principle of this product works. The silicones form a layer on your skin to make it smooth and therefore blocks the secretion of oil. I would not recommend this on a daily use as it will tire the skin. There is even alcohol in the moisturiser which a lot of products avoid using these days.

2. Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer  – is a film former used in cosmetics and beauty products, as well as a viscosity increasing agent. It is a porous polymer that absorbs excess of sebum or acne-producing oils.

3. Talc – I have talked about the dangers of talc in my previous review of Crazy Monkey BB Cream Review ( click here! )

4. Sorbitan Olivate – an olive oil derived ingredient used as an emulsifier (helps blend ingredients that can’t usually blend together). To read more of Sorbitan Olivate, please head over here!

5. Microcrystalline wax – type of wax produced by de-oiling petrolatum.

6. Grapefruit , Lemon, Lavender, Tea Tree and Camelia Leaf extracts – commonly found in anti acne, anti – oily skin products due to their soothing properties.

7. Castor Oil – famous for its moisturising properties. It grabs moisture from the air and holds it close to the skin. It also thickens the mixture of cosmetic products, allowing the ingredients to remain more stable. It is gentle to the skin and does not cause irritation unlike tea tree oil.

Texture

a) Moisturiser – Texture of moisturiser is very smooth and velvety ( of course! it has all sorts of silicones in it! ) It sinks right away on the skin and feels light and comfortable. It also has a light perfume scent to it (contains fragrance like all korean cosmetics which i personally do not like because because it contains many toxic chemicals and they are not listed in ingredients but simply just as Fragrance ).

b) Primer – I do have a problem with this. I really do feel that im killing my skin each time i apply this. Once you apply this on your finger, you will definitely feel a sandy powdery feeling ( sand-paper like effect ). I really do feel that all this powder tiny particles are meant to block every single breathing cells in my skin. Your skin of course feels very smooth and velvety once you rub it in your pores.

Oil Control

This product definitely has faaaantastic oil control. It kept my skin not so oily even after 6-8 hours and it does what it claims to – control oil. It also helps to make the BB Cream hold longer in place. Gives you a slight matte finish to it.

Conclusion

I do really have a love hate relationship with this product and i’m sure those who use this product will feel torn between skin health or looking beautiful. This product is fantastic at controlling oil, but at the same time, it is full of silicones, wax, alcohol – substances that are not beneficial for your skin and prevents it from breathing.

You would really have to find a balance between this. For those who are not really bothered by silicones and have OK-Healthy skin, i would recommend this product. But for those who already have skin problems like acne, etc and have a problem with silicones, petrolatum and alcohol in your products – i would recommend you to stay away from this.

Personally, i only use this product when i have the need to look fantastic. It really helps in controlling your sebum and the shine on my face.

This product helps you in the short run, but will it ruin your skin in the long haul?

Ratings

Red heartRed heartRed heartRed heartRed heartRed heartBroken heart / 10

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Crazy Monkey BB Cream No. 23 SPF 30 , PA ++ October 29, 2010

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Introduction

Crazy Monkey is a relatively new BB cream brand which sells ONLY BB Creams using organic ingredients. There are currently 4 products under the Crazy Monkey brand , this being the cheapest of the line. There is also the Premium To Be Natural BB Cream ( 24,000 Korean Wons), D’Argan BB Perfect Liquide BB Cream – an anti aging BB Cream (44,000 Korean Wons), and just recently they have launched the Rolling Powder Pact (27,000 Korean Wons).  Note that there is two different shades for this BB cream – No.21and No.23.

Packaging

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Lovely. First of all, the name and the logo itself catches your eyes. The BB Cream comes in the form of a tube ( which i do not like due to hygiene reasons ). I love the logo 12. There are two different packaging for this, one pictured above in a 30ml tube, and another one which is 20ml (pictured below)

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Ingredients

Water, Phenyl Trimethicone, Titanium Dioxide, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Talc, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Arbutin, 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Magnesium Sulfate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Saponaria Officinalis Leaf/Root Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract, Adenosine, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Hexyl Laurate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ozokerite, Zinc Stearate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Beeswax, Xanthan Gum, Propylene Carbonate, Disodium EDTA, Propylparaben, Methylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Fragrance, ± CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499

When i see cosmetics which claims to be certified ‘organic’ i would definitely link it to No Parabens, Talc Free, etc ( Not that i have any problems with Parabens ). However this product is not paraben and talc free.  One would notice that there is lots of flower extracts used here :

1) Lavender and Chamomile extracts – well known and widely used in BB Creams for their soothing properties.

2) Arbutin – it is widely used and appears in almost every whitening skincare or BB cream after the dangerous effects of Hydroquinone was found and it was subsequently banned. It is also known as Bearberry Extract. Arbutin is also found in wheat and is concentrated in pear skins. Known for its whitening and de-pigmentation properties, it can inhibit the formation of melanin pigment by inhibiting Tyrosinase activity.

3) Talc – is basically a mineral composed of hydrated magnesium silicate and it’s powder is used widely in cosmetics in the powder form. However, many BB Creams are starting to steer away from the usage of Talc (Talc- Free) after it was associated to the potent carcinogen asbestos. However, cosmetic grade talc claims not to contain asbestos. Talc particles were found to cause tumours in the ovaries and lungs of cancer victims. Talc is used widely in Baby Powder because it absorbs unpleasant moisture, and it is widely used in cosmetics (especially in BB Creams and Foundations ) due to its absorbent (therefore making it anti-sweat/water/natural skin oil), anti- caking properties, and it’s ability to improve the feel of the product

4) Sodium Hyaluronate – which im sure everyone knows it as the famous water-retaning moisturiser Hyaluronic Acid. Sodium Hyaluronate is actually the sodium salt of Hyaluronic Acid and is the key water maintaining substances in human skin. When it is applied, it forms an air permeable layer and keeps the skin moist and smooth. Small molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid can penetrate into the skin – fully combine with water molecules to promote skin blood microcirculation and plays a role in anti-aging as well.

5) Tocopheryl Acetate – or known as Vitamin E.

6) Angelica Extract – if anyone of you who is familiar with the brand Decleor, this would be familiar! Angelica is the main component in Decleor’s line for Dry Skin and is known for its protective and soothing benefits while nourishing the skin. It is also known as Dong Quai for the chinese.

Colour

The color is probably around NC 20-NC 25.

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As seen in the photos, Crazy Monkey’s No. 23 is about the same colour as the Enprani’s Vital BB cream but a tad darker than the Enprani Rayshot.

What i love about this BB Cream is that it blends well with my skin color, and makes it look natural and bright.

Texture

I’d say the texture is more to the thick side, and would need a little more force to spread the BB cream around. It is creamy and rather smooth in texture. However, it does give a bit of the cakey finish which i am not a fan about – so you’d have to be careful of the amount that you use. It feels comfortable on the skin and does not give the oil-ish feel to your skin.

Coverage

Coverage is pretty good with this BB Cream. However it does give a cakey look but it does a good job in covering your imperfections. A little pat with your powder would probably make the cakey-ness look less obvious.

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Oil-Control

The Crazy Monkey BB Cream has some fantastic oil control properties. It was compared to the Enprani’s Rayshot BB Cream. Picture was taken every 1 hour, and the last picture was taken after 12 hours.

 

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Check out more comparison with other BB Creams by clicking here

Price & Availability

This BB cream is retailed for about 20,000 Korean Wons which is about less than 20$USD. Currently, it isn’t easy to find this brand. However, you can order it from http://koreanthings.com/ , but however you have to be willing to pay almost double the retail price. Please check out their website http://www.crazymonkey.co.kr/ for further information. You are also going to be able to find them in Korea, in the duty free shops. Smile . Also, Hope-in-a-Blog is giving this away for free to one lucky reader – click here for more details.

Conclusion

Crazy Monkey has a fantastic brand to it – a brand that could be easily marketed due to it’s cute name, cute packaging and cute logo. I do see a potential in this company – as the BB Cream is of good quality – although since it is focusing on its ‘organic ingredients’ concept, it would really do better without the talc and parabens in it.  To avoid making it too cakey, make sure that you do not apply too much of the cream, or simply mix it with your serum/cream to avoid making it look cakey on your face. The colour is very natural and blends right away with your skin colour.  Hopefully this brand would find itself on the shores of Asia soon, so at the meantime, if you’re in Korea, drop by the airport or Seoul’s duty free shop to grab one of these cute babies.

Ratings

Red heartRed heartRed heartRed heartRed heartRed heartRed heartBroken heart

 

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Zensation’s Deep Purifying Toner October 17, 2010

Company’s Introduction

ZENSATION luxury skincare is essentially based on high quality Swiss Alpine plant extracts, fruit extracts, bio technology complex and neuro stimulating molecules. No harmful preservatives and chemical substances used, and natural aroma is being added to offer blissful “ZENSATION.”

Here’s a long list of things you won’t find in Zensation products:
– Alcohol
– Colorant/Dyes
– Synthetic Fragrance
– Animal-Derived Ingredients
– Mineral Oils
– Parabens

Product Introduction

A detoxifying and revitalizing toner with tea tree oil to control misbehaving skin and for occasional spot prevention.  This toner is dedicated to soothe and refresh the skin as it removes any excess of dirt, debris, or cleanser residue.  The mixture of essential oils of thyme, sage, lavender and mint to produce a calming, yet mildly astringent effect.

This unique, alcohol-free preparation is a natural product with antibacterial and anti- inflammatory properties. Helps to soothe blemishes, leaving the skin feeling fresh and conditioned.

Packaging

The toner comes in a very heavy glass 120ml bottle (as all luxury skincare products). It has some very nice simple floral drawings to it.

Ingredients

1) Tea Tree Oil – Tea tree oil is no stranger in anti-acne/anti-blemish/oily skin products. The scent of it is quite obvious in this product. As you all know, tea tree oil has antiseptic, antibacterial, antifungal and antivirus properties to it.

2) Peppermint Oil – Has high Menthol content, giving the toner a minty cold feeling after using. (Be careful to not dap this on your eye! ) It nourishes dull skin and improves oily skin.

3) Thyme Oil – An ancient herb used in medicine by the Greeks and Romans.

Thyme oil contains the elements caryophyllene and camphene, which allow it to function as an antiseptic.

4) Sage Oil – helps to balance the production of sebum (oil) in the skin and also has some astringent qualities

5) Lavender Oil – Calms and soothes troubled skin.

Review

I have been applying this toner almost every single day for the past 3 weeks. The lotion has a very nice herb-tea tree smell to it. I usually use this toner together with my Hitachi Face Crie Ion Cleansing . The texture of this toner is a little sticky, it is not entirely liquid. It does leave some stickiness to your skin, but that doesnt pose any problems for me. Another good point is that it doesnt contain alcohol – therefore it doesnt dry the skin out completely and gives a tight uncomfortable feeling. But it does give you a very refreshing feeling probably due to the menthoi content of the peppermint oil.  Regarding oil-control, i do not see any differences or improvement, but come on, what do you expect from a toner? Hehe. However, i would not spend such money on a toner (this was a gift from a friend).

Ratings

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